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By Way of Korea

South Korea   |   New York

A Korean food blog and travelogue inspired by

an epicurious New Yorker's journey around South Korea

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Jun 12, 20191 min read

Gangneung's Famous Jang-Kalguksu (Gangwon Province)


A formidable bowl of kalgusku landed with a heavy thud at our table.


Jang-kalguksu, another one of Gangneung's signature noodle dishes, consists of "knife-cut" noodles served in a broth heavier and more robust than the light anchovy or chicken broth of the kind of kalguksu I had been accustomed to eating before moving to Gangwon-do.


At Hyundae Jang-Kalguksoo (현대 장칼국수), one of the most popular culinary attractions in Gangneung sought out for this beloved regional specialty, both gochujang and doenjang are added to a broth made with anchovies and dried pollack heads. The recipes for jang-kalguksu I've browsed online don't call for the use of dried pollack, but in Gangneung and Pyeongchang it is an ingredient very commonly employed to make broths.


Dispersing the seaweed flakes and digging into the bowl revealed a mix of mussels, clams, potatoes, squash, onion, egg, and a immodest serving of noodles that were cut almost a centimeter wide. Although gochujang was the dominant flavor, both "jang" combined contributed an aged richness to the kalguksu that I grew very fond of with each slurp.


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"If you’re twenty-two, physically fit, hungry to learn and be better, I urge you to travel - as far and as widely as possible. Sleep on floors if you have to. Find out how other people live and eat and cook. Learn from them - wherever you go."

Anthony Bourdain's unmatched relish for adventure and humble approach to food, cultures, and humanity left an indelible impression on my younger self. Imparting on me the courage to veer into the unknown, he inspired me to embrace my vulnerabilities and seek adventures and growth beyond the comforts of home.

 

In July of 2017, I boarded a one-way flight to Seoul, South Korea. Within the first week of arrival, I signed a lease for an apartment and by the end of August, I had accepted a job offer that relocated me to Pyeongchang and Gangneung, where the Winter Olympics were soon to be held. From there, I had the rare opportunity to explore much of the greater Gangwon Province's beautiful mountainous and coastal regions and their distinctive foods. Once or twice a month, I'd return to Seoul or travel to an unfamiliar region to poke around alleyways, markets, and mountains in search of more good eats and adventures.

 

By Way of Korea is a storytelling project inspired by the food, places, and faces I encountered throughout Korea. By sharing my fondest memories, notes, and images of Korea, I simply hope to play a small part in piquing greater curiosity about Korean food and culture in my readers.  My content will heavily spotlight, but not be limited to Korean food and culture. 

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